mercoledì 13 febbraio 2008

Divagazioni a nord

Il Vietnam e' un paese assolutamente ossesionato dal calcio. Penso ci siano almeno due canali televisivi dedicati interamente al football, 24 ore su 24. Un giorno mi e' capitato di vedere uno speciale di un'ora sul campionato di Serie A; bellissimo. Un'altra sera invece, sapendo che il Milan stava affrontando l'Inter nel derby della Madonnina, sono uscito dall'albergo e ho iniziato a camminare a caso per le strade di Hanoi. C'e' voluto poco per trovare un piccolo ristorante dove un gruppetto di vietnamiti, seduti sui classici minuscoli sgabellini di plastica, stava seguendo il derby da una televisione schiacciata in un angolo del locale. Aggiuntomi a loro cerco di spiegargli che tifo rossonero e che vengo dall'Italia; uno penso che abbia capito. La mia presenza desta curiosita', anche perche' seguo la partita animosamente. Peccato che il Milan abbia perso (non ricordo il punteggio); eccezionale comunque; soprattutto vederli urlare e festeggiare per un gol di una squadra dall'altra parte del pianeta, cosi lontana da loro.

Dopo Hanoi mi sposto verso il nord del Vietnam: voglio infatti entrare in Laos nel punto piu' settentrionale possibile. Ad Hanoi apprendo che hanno aperto una nuova frontiera qualche mese fa, nei pressi di Dien Bien Phu. Prima di arrivarci faccio una tappa a Son La, a meta' strada tra Hanoi e il confine con il Laos. La citta' e' una gradevole sorpresa; non che ci sia molto da vedere, ma mi accorgo di essere uscito dal principale sentiero turistico in Vietnam (che si snoda seguendo il tratto di costa orientale da Hanoi, nel nord, fino a Saigon, nel sud) e molte persone, soprattutto i bambini, mi salutano genuinamente e con larghi sorrisi. Stasera devo essere l'unico straniero in citta' e la cosa non puo' che essere piacevole. Il passo successivo mi porta a Dien Bien Phu e anche qui la storia non cambia: non incontro altri viaggiatori in citta'. Dien Ben e' famosa in quanto sede della vittoria decisiva dell'esercito vietnamita contro i francesi che porta, di fatto, al temine del periodo coloniale francese in Vietnam. Visito un campo di battaglia dove e' possibile ispezionare le trincee ed entrare in alcuni stretti bunker e gallerie.
L'indomani, a meta' mattinata, sono pronto ad entrare in Laos. L'unico mezzo pubblico verso il confine, un minibus, e' partito alle 4.30 di mattina. Organizzo quindi un moto taxi per coprire i 35km che mi separano dal Laos. Viaggio aggrappato ad un piccolo scooter a 4 marce; il guidatore si e' messo il mio zainetto sul petto mentre io porto lo zainone sulle spalle. Il traffico in strada e' assolutamente assente; non incrociamo nessuno e superiamo unicamente un camion, vuoto, con targa laotiana. Sembra di andare alla scoperta dell'America; la solitudine mi eccita.
La strada si inerpica fino a raggiungere la cresta di una catena di colline ricoperte da una fitta vegetazione. Raggiunto il confine saluto il motociclista; le formalita' doganali sul lato vietnamita vengono sbrigate in un attimo e dopo 10 minuti mi trovo a percorrere a piedi 1km di strada sterrata verso il posto di frontiera del Laos. Un doganiere mi accoglie con un largo sorriso, mi mette uno stampo rosso sul passaporto e mi indica un gruppo di poltrone: "attendi qui" dice "prima di trovare un passaggio verso Muang Khua".
Sono in Laos e probabilmente mi trovo ad una frontiera tra le meno trafficate del mondo!

Rene'

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